Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/81170
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Plush leather seats make for a casual, relaxed atmosphere. Osso buco d'agnello: bone-in lamb shank served with vegetable stew and pappardelle pasta Cassata Siciliana, with raspberry gelato, meringue sorbet, and a frozen nougat topping Febbraro is also doing the classic chicken française, a throwback to old Las Vegas. Picture a medallion of chicken with a bread-crumb crust, pan- fried with capers and a delicate citrus butter. If you fancy seafood, the kitchen's Scottish salmon is grilled perfectly and paired with a single large raviolo, or raviolone, stuffed with finely minced artichoke. Zuppa di pesce, though, may be the chef's pièce de résistance. Similar to the tomato-based seafood soup that is known in some circles as cioppino, it is a huge crock chock-full of scallops, shrimp, cod, squid, clams, and mussels. Whew! Italian cuisine is an ideal option for those with vegan and vegetarian diets, so dishes such as panzanella, a Tuscan soaked-bread and vegetable salad, or minestrone, which the chef embellishes here with a dollop of that homemade pesto, need no alteration. 112 WYNN But he's also veggified a few classics. His vegan Bolognese uses whole-wheat pasta and Gardein, a textured vegetable protein, resulting in a dish that remarkably has the look, feel, and even scent of a veal ragù. The Gardein—as opposed to chicken—Parmigiana, served on fresh, house-made linguine, is almost indistinguishable from the "real" thing. Service at Allegro is solicitous, efficient, and swift—as the name implies. Diners also benefit from the resort's vast wine cellar; although the in-house list has a variety of boutique Italian wines, such as the delicious Pinot Grigio by Livio Felluga and several sought-after Chiantis, wines from other venues are also available here on request. Oh, and there's one more thing: Allegro has two (count 'em) of the best Italian desserts in the city, and that's if you don't include the homemade biscotti that you can eat with an espresso here (the chocolate cookies are to die for). We're talking about cassata Siciliana, raspberry gelato with a nougat topping, served in slices; and baba au rhum, a soft, soaked rum cake served on a pool of crème anglaise, with a whipped-cream topping to completely destroy any resistance. Allegro: It also refers to the speed with which this restaurant is destined to become one of the biggest hits on the Strip. n