Wynn Las Vegas Magazine by MODERN LUXURY

WYNN - 2012 - Issue 1 - Spring

Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas

Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/63192

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 133 of 135

WYNN WRITINGS Where do the chefs of Wynn and Encore eat? We asked Paul Bartolotta to discuss a few favorite dishes not cooked in his own kitchen. BY LAURIE BROOKINS A MOVEABLE FEAST to make Peking duck—when I get into Asian cooking, I'm kind of lost—so I'm just so respectful of how well they handle it. But I'm really into the adventure of eating, and this dish is a great example of that." Paul Bartolotta S 132 WYNN even years into his tenure at Wynn, Paul Bartolotta's passion for what he has created with his award-winning Ristorante di Mare shows no signs of waning. When we speak in late March, Bartolotta describes with equal enthusiasm the latest additions to his menu, from the seasonal balano— those succulent crustaceans also known as "goose barnacles," sourced from Sicily and acquired from a supplier in Portugal—to his new tasting of spoon desserts, roughly two-dozen house-made sorbets, granitas, and gelati, in flavors including rosemary, zabaione, and sheep's milk ricotta, with a serving composed of six miniature scoops of your choosing. The ever- effusive executive chef calls it "a symphony of flavors in your mouth." Bartolotta is part of an exclusive fraternity, those chefs handpicked by Steve Wynn while he was crafting the vision for his namesake resort. And from the moment Wynn opened in April 2005, Bartolotta's mastery of Italian-seafood cookery has been praised by critics and customers alike; honors include the James Beard Foundation award (his second) in 2009 and, most recently, his Forbes Four-Star ranking for 2012. Yet with all that in mind, we couldn't help but wonder: When Paul steps outside his own kitchen, which restaurants throughout Wynn and Encore does he fre- quent? Here, he discusses a quartet of favorites: WING LEI "This is such a special restaurant—the only Chinese restaurant in the US to be awarded a Michelin star. Surely one of the reasons this happened is because of the Peking duck tasting offered on the menu. They carve the duck tableside, which is a great show, and then the duck finds its way into a salad, a soup, a chow mein, all these different courses. And the duck is both crispy and moist, which is far from easy to do. I don't know how RED 8 "The restaurant I dine at most on property is Red 8, which has done noth- ing but get better over the years. It's a real restaurant with delicious food that's served quickly and is well-priced—yet if you look at the décor and the service, it offers all the trappings of a fine-dining experience. When I want to eat super-light and healthy, I order the steamed sea bass; it's the most delicate dish on the menu, very light and flavorful. When I'm in the mood for something a little more rib-sticking, more unctuous, I love to eat the oxtail soup, which is fantastic, very intensive. Overall it's a menu of great choices—I love all the vegetable cookery as well, the broccoli, the string beans. When you're a chef you end up eating a lot of late-night meals, and you're rarely in the mood for something heavy. I can go to Red 8 and order four or five items, and they're always loaded with flavor and perfect." Steamed sea bass at Red 8 THE COUNTRY CLUB "[Executive chef] Carlos Guia came up with this great idea, a Sunday Jazz Brunch that's New Orleans-inspired, and it really is among the best brunches I've ever had. Sunday brunches can be really hit or miss, both with the food and the staff; sometimes you can see they're just not into it. But you look at Carlos and his team, and you can tell they're just thrilled with what they've put together. I've taken my wife and daughter in, and we have a great time. Carlos does a lightly spiced shrimp with grits, a great combination that I absolutely love, and also this fantastic watermelon gaz- pacho. I'd never had gazpacho made with watermelon, so at first it might seem a little shocking, but it's really flavorful and fun." SW STEAKHOUSE "How can you not love what David Walzog is doing? He buys the most amazing meat, and he's known for this great steakhouse, but what impresses me most is how well he does all of his non-steak dishes. He does a spicy cipollini that's just delicious, and amaz- ing sweet potato fries. His side dishes are always just so mouth-watering. He also does a halibut that's absolutely beautiful. What I love about David's menu are all the things you wouldn't expect, with a lot of well-con- ceived, well-executed dishes. You can order a steak and you'll love it, but if you don't want to eat a steak you'll still eat great." n The Country Club's watermelon gazpacho PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFF GREEN (SEA BASS); ALEX KARVOUNIS (BARTOLOTTA)

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of Wynn Las Vegas Magazine by MODERN LUXURY - WYNN - 2012 - Issue 1 - Spring