Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/149416
VINE ARTS From browns to coppery hues, the color of a glass of wine can indicate maturation—or a bottle gone bad. the center, the deepest part. But if you see too much of that clear liquid at the shallow point, that wine is probably pushed to the limits of what is good." But what if you see a bit of brown or russet toward the rim? "Whatever shade of red it is, once it starts to show a brick or brownish color, you are starting to get age and maturation. You should see distinct variations in color, from clear to brown to deeper red hues." However, he cautions, "brown or orange does not always mean mature." In "If you see a brackish-brown color at the rim and no variation in color, that's probably a sign of oxidation."—mark thomas the case of Pinot Noir, which you can find in ample supply at Lakeside or SW Steakhouse, or Nebbiolo, which you'll find at Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, a bit of discoloration in the palette isn't unusual in younger wines, and is a notuncommon trait of these grape varietals. And what about orange? "If you see a brackish-brown color at the rim and no rim variation in color, that's probably a sign of oxidation or maderization, likely caused by a heat spike," says Thomas. "If there's a butterscotch or sherry flavor, or if it has a metallic, or almost iodine taste to it with a really coppery hue, it's not good." While there are some white wines purposefully made in this style, with a bit of oxidation and time spent loitering around in their skins, a wine that's oxidized will smell a little bit like a burnt match or caramel. Again, Pinot Noir comes in as the ringer to the rule: Older Pinots, says Thomas, can get a bit of an orangey hue with age. "But if it's a younger Cabernet Sauvignon? That's absolutely a bad bottle of wine. It depends on the grape." Which is why you have to get to know a bit about your favorites to be a good color sleuth. Whites, for instance: "If you have a Sauvignon Blanc and pour it out, and it looks like the color or honey or brass, that's too old!" But even to this there is an exception: White Bordeaux, which typically is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, is great with a bit of age. "They do start to turn that orangey color and pick up nutty, caramel-like characteristics." You also might see brown in older dessert wines, like a Pedro Ximénez sherry, for instance. "That will get that orangey brown color. But if we're talking Chardonnay?" Thomas laughs. "It's not a friendly color!" Never be afraid to use your eyes and examine the color of that potentially gorgeous juice before you; after all, seeing is believing. Thomas recommends a simple evaluation: Hold your glass with a white napkin behind or beneath it so you can really see the color in the glass. "This will help you determine the tongue and heart, or the shallow point and the deep point." Look for clarity and color variation from rim to center. "If I ordered a '97 PlumpJack [Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon], it should be showing a little less color and more alcohol by the legs dripping down the sides of the glass. With that quick affirmation using my eyes, I know it's what I ordered." Color us impressed. n THE COLOR OF QUALITY BY AMY ZAVATTO I t was Galileo who said, "Wine is sunlight, held together by water." A beautiful sentiment from the Italian astronomer and mathematician, but there is much more to a glorious goblet of vino than a bit of shine and glint. In fact, the captivating color in a glass is more often compared with precious gems and metals—ruby, gold, garnet—and sometimes they cost as much. These tones go beyond mere poetic comparisons, though—they can tell you an enormous amount about what you're about to drink. From a wine's age to its quality and (mon dieu!) potential as a dud—when it comes to sussing it all out, Wynn Las Vegas's director of wine Mark Thomas has the perfect palette guide for your palate. "There are a few things the color of a wine can tell you," says Thomas. In particular, note its depth of color. Thomas suggests tipping a glass filled with about an ounce of wine to a 45-degree angle until it almost reaches the edge. "At the most shallow point, it will give you an idea of age. With Cabernet Sauvignon, for instance, you're looking for density of color in 100 PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX KARVOUNIS What can you tell by looking at your glass? WYNN 100_W_BOB_VineArts_Fall13.indd 100 8/9/13 11:29 AM