Michigan Avenue - Niche Media - Michigan Avenue magazine is a luxury lifestyle magazine centered around Chicago’s finest people, events, fashion, health & beauty, fine dining & more!
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/198792
Caputo Cheese Market sources its wares from all over Italy. A selection of antipasti from Caputo Cheese Market. "Even 30 years later, there are still ingredients to discover. I could eat Italian every day." —TONY MANTUANO Viviani, Siena Tavern's executive chef. "It's warm and comforting, like when you walk into your family's home." Asks Priolo, "How many times have you fallen in love in Italy? We tap into memories." And serve them to Chicago diners. Just as chefs have become more versed in the authentic culinary culture of Italy, many are moving away from their purist mentors and pushing boundaries in their Chicago eateries. In Italy, there are codes you do not break; but in Chicago, we experiment—with delicious results. Says Macchia, "We can have a simple whole roasted fish, and it's classic, and if an Italian came here, they would get that. But we might also have seared scallops with fregula and prosciutto with a purée of roasted corn. It's contemporary, but it still has an Italian essence." Says Grueneberg, a spunky Texan with serious cooking chops, "I make something that's Italian at heart, but maybe you'll see Texas venison on the plate." In many ways, even as the new chefs stray from the traditional, they stay true to tradition by following the tenets of the Italian kitchen: sourcing locally, then applying traditional cooking techniques to create a new type of Italian. "We are influenced by Italian regional dishes, but we are going to cook the way we do it," says Kahan. Summing up his inspiration for bringing his version of Italian to the Windy City, Batali states, "Chicagoans are foodies by definition—it's a city with an amazing food culture. It has chefs who are artists and technicians." And though one may prefer chewy-crusted Neapolitan-style pizza or bottomless bowls of Italian-American spaghetti with meatballs, refined takes on rustic or modern interpretations of the classics, there's one thing that all Chicagoans can agree on: In this city, everybody loves Italian. MA West Loop Salumi: 1111 W. Randolph St., 312-255-7004; westloopsalumi.com Merlo on Maple: 16 W. Maple St., 312-335-8200; merlochicago.com Stefani Signature Restaurants: Phil Stefani's 437 Rush (437 N. Rush St., 312-222-0101; philstefanis437rush.com); Tuscany (1014 W. Taylor St., 312-829-1990; tuscanychicago.com); Tavern On Rush (1031 N. Rush St., 312-664-9600; tavernonrush.com); stefanirestaurants.com Caputo Cheese Market: 1931 N. 15th Ave., Melrose Park, 708-450-0469; wisconcorp.com/caputocheese.html 124 The Cheesemonger NATALE CAPUTO, WISCON CORP/CAPUTO CHEESE MARKET The son of an Italian food importer and cheese processor, Natale Caputo grew up in the family business. Whether visiting suppliers in Thiesi Sardinia, Teverola, or Arona in Italy, or checking on their Melrose Park and Lake Forest stores, his commitment to culture is evident. Boasting a portfolio of roughly 1,000 cheeses, he's the go-to guy for everyone from consumers to Costco. If you could only import three items, what would they be? Olive oil, ParmigianoReggiano (that should probably be number one—the king of all kings), and wine. What would your last supper be? Osso buco—I love it. There would be a cheese platter to start or finish, arugula salad, and a caprese salad with no onions. Oh yeah, and a nice, big jug of wine. What are your pet peeves when it comes to Italian food? Bruschetta—maybe it had good credit when it was original and they put a roma tomato on a crostini with a drizzle of olive oil. Then Americans got ahold of it and they are scooping tomatoes out of a can and calling it bru-SHETTA. And four-pound meatballs—who makes meatballs that big? Nobody... and for a reason! MICHIGANAVEMAG.COM 118-125_MA_FEAT_Culinary_Nov13_V3.indd 124 10/21/13 5:47 PM