Michigan Avenue - Niche Media - Michigan Avenue magazine is a luxury lifestyle magazine centered around Chicago’s finest people, events, fashion, health & beauty, fine dining & more!
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The bar at Phil Stefani's 437 Rush. "From a cook's perspective [Italian food] is inspiring, and from a diner's it's comforting." —CHRIS PANDEL Michelin-starred Spiaggia and Pelago. Diners flocked, reviewers raved, and a slew of Italian restaurant openings has followed. A Saturday evening seating at Fabio Viviani's Siena Tavern has become a status symbol. Scott Harris, founder of the Mia Francesca chain, recently opened a Davanti Enoteca in River North more than three times the size of the original Taylor Street wineand-bites spot. And this summer, Joe Frasca threw his J. Rocco's Italian Table & Bar into the ring with chef/partner Steve Chiappetti, turning out bowls of homemade pasta and "honest" rustic dishes. Chiappetti feels that Chicago is enjoying a time of no-fuss eating—that with Italian, there's no need to improvise, comparing it to a classic Armani white collared shirt. "It's clean, simple, and if worn correctly, it's pretty damn elegant." Then there's the highly anticipated opening of Nico Osteria, an Italian seafood concept set to open in early December in the Thompson Hotel from rock-star chef Paul Kahan and his partners at One Off Hospitality Group (Avec, The Publican, Blackbird, Publican Quality Meats, Big Star). Says Kahan, "[Expect] a lot of homemade pastas, traditional bistecca fiorentina, and selections of fish by the pound, roasted whole and served tableside." And considering Chicago's current passion for all things Italian, it comes as no surprise that this month sees the opening of Mario Batali's eight-restaurant, 63,000-square-foot food emporium Eataly in the heart of River North at The Shops at North Bridge. Local chefs cite numerous reasons for the resurgence of Italian cuisine. "People are very comfortable with Italian food," says Chris Macchia, executive chef of The Florentine. Adds Chris Pandel, executive chef/partner of Balena, "From a cook's perspective it's inspiring, and from a diner's it's comforting." As for Mantuano, he's simply happy that other Chicago chefs have caught up to what he's been preaching for decades. "Even 30 years later, there are still ingredients to discover," he says, enthusing, "I could eat Italian food every single day." For Windy City cooks, serving Italian food penetrates the human longing for romance, security, and a sense of place and belonging. "It's not just about the food, but the hospitality," says Mantuano, who in his 30 years at Spiaggia has hosted everything from dinners with the president to Oprah's 50th birthday party. "It is family food that brings back good times," says Fabio Seafood pasta from Phil Stefani. The Kingpin PHIL STEFANI, PHIL STEFANI SIGNATURE RESTAURANTS Confident and charismatic, Chicago native Phil Stefani, son of immigrants from Lucca, has built one of the city's most successful restaurant groups in the past 30-plus years. A sophisticated palate honed during frequent business trips to Italy and a passion for his culture's cuisine led him to open beloved Italian dining staples Tuscany and Phil Stefani's 437 Rush. In the movie Big Night, two brothers open a restaurant together—chef Primo wants everything to be authentic, Secondo just wants to give the customers what they want. Which brother are you? One time a good customer comes in and says, "Hey, I'd like two eggs sunny-side up." The chef refuses, so I go to the chef, and I say, "You have two eggs? Are you going to fry them or do you want me to fry them for you? He is a regular customer. You have the eggs. Make him the eggs." What could you eat over and over and never get sick of? The thing that I really used to enjoy because I was brought up on it—we ate a lot of salumi, we ate a lot of prosciutto, mortadella. Now it's great because you can get mortadella in the US, where you didn't have it years ago. My mother always used to say, "Antipasto rovina pasto"—antipasto ruins your meal. It does. MICHIGANAVEMAG.COM 118-125_MA_FEAT_Culinary_Nov13_V3.indd 123 123 10/21/13 5:47 PM