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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAUL LOEB/AFP/GETTY IMAGES (OBAMA); COURTESY OF MOSCHINO (RUNWAY, FALL LOOK) "Fun can be in the details, like a small embroidered heart or maybe a touch of color."—BILL SHAPIRO FROM LEFT: modern setting. Not only did we show where Moschino has been, but where it is going." This reverence toward the past and vision for the future is not new for this native of Gary, Indiana, who studied fashion design and fine art at The School of the Art Institute of Chicago. His first internship was with another SAIC alum, Lawrence Steele, which brought him straight to Milan, where he's been ever since. In 1993, he signed on to work with Franco Moschino, the brand's patriarch and founding father, to design the menswear collections. Moschino, which is known for its "fashion for the fun set" mentality, continued this state of mind throughout its men's Fall/ Winter 2013 collection. Showgoers were invited to an extravagant "dinner party" in an old Milanese haunt of Franco Moschino's called Giannino, where the designer first showed 30 years ago, and where this season the models "walked from the studio to the restaurant and through the front door as if they were guests," Shapiro says. Italian heritage and the Anglomania that's sweeping the fashion world might seem like an odd combination, but one that the collection brought together harmoniously in its version of "Moschinoshire." Tailored suits in blacks, grays, and blues got a modern update with moto-inspired details, and traditional dinner jackets were given a dose of Moschino wit with tromp l'oeil vests. Featuring classic British influences such as tartans and plaids, classic-cut white dress shirts, and equestrianinspired pieces as well as cheeky touches LEFT: A look from such as Scotland Yard caps, the collecthe Fall/Winter 2013 collection. tion feels at once modern and Moschino models crawling on the runway in the 1980s; First Lady Michelle Obama wore Moschino while visiting Pope Benedict XVI. old-world—and characteristically Moschino. "This season it was important for us to give options to our clients," explains Shapiro. "The idea of doing a show in a restaurant—we liked the idea that there's a menu to choose from. People like Moschino for different things." Shapiro is banking on his Chicago clientele liking plenty in the new collection. "Tartan is the first [trend] that comes to mind [for Chicago] because it's both eccentric and classic and perfect for Chicago's winters. It's so cold that [when I'm in Chicago] all I think about is survival, but you might as well look good trying! Chicago is a fun town.... Fun can be in the details, like a small heart embroidered on a poplin shirt, or maybe a touch of color on a pocket square, tie, or cashmere scarf." The nostalgia for his time at Moschino as well as the brand's major moments are key points of inspiration for Shapiro, most notably waking up and seeing a photo of Michelle Obama wearing Moschino to visit Pope Benedict XVI. The brand's dedication to wit and whimsy will culminate in a retrospective party this month at Ikram. Says Shapiro, "Ikram [Goldman] is not only known for her amazing store and the incredible selection of clothes, but she's also known for her fabulous parties. She's been a loyal fan of Moschino since she opened her boutique. She's also so much fun! I think it's a perfect fit [for a celebration of Moschino]." Goldman feels the same about their compatibility, remarking, "The collection [has always been] so fabulously designed and so incredibly wearable that you cannot look at a Moschino without recognizing the fit, the look, and the image, and that is what makes it iconic. Being asked to host the launch of the 30-year anniversary is such an honor that it's beyond an honor." Adds Goldman, "Moschino has stood the test of time in an industry where so many designers are in the moment and out of the moment. That's what really matters." Moschino menswear is available at saks.com; womenswear is available at Ikram, 15 E. Huron St., 312-587-1000; ikram.com MA MICHIGANAVEMAG.COM 094-095_MA_SS_TasteMaker_October13.indd 95 95 9/17/13 4:54 PM