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Oxxford's "one-way" lay means better pattern matching. labor-intensive process providing a unique fit that prevents the collar from creeping up over time. The reverse hand chain stitch around the armhole provides comfort and give. Each Oxxford coat is finished with a 1/16-inch hand pick stitch on the coat edge, pocket flaps, and welt edges. Even the buttonholes are hand-sewn using only silk thread, and buttons are pro- duced from natural animal horn. Anyone who's ever donned an Oxxford suit knows how comfortable its trousers are, achieved through the pat- ented "saddle" making up the pockets and inside waistband (four separate pieces are hand-sewn together and attached by hand, allowing the trouser to drape comfortably). One of the pattern methods Oxxford is famous for is the "one-way" lay—all pieces are placed in the same direction, which uti- lizes more fabric than other cutting methods. But this means better pattern matching and the elimination of shading differences. The final stage is a gentle hand-pressing: Due to the continual under- pressing and shape that is built throughout the creation of an Oxxford garment, a soft hand-pressing is all that's needed. Most manufacturers still use standard pressing to build shape into their garments. It's this custom work and attention to detail that has landed Oxxford suits on the famous forms of many of Hollywood's elite, including Clark Gable. In 2001, when President George W. Bush was in office, he flew Giovannangelo to Texas to make his inaugural tux, which had a special bulletproof lining in the overcoat. Locally, the company's most notorious client is former Governor Rod Blagojevich, who had a penchant for Oxxford's bespoke suits. Depending on the fabric chosen, a coat can start at $3,000; an entire suit a minimum of $4,000. "If customers are happy, I'm happy," Giovannangelo says with a smile. "We do what the people request." And those people are mostly recurring customers that the massive "tailor shop" has been catering to for more than 20 years. Ask any of its 130 employees, from veteran cutters to coat shop employees, who look up to Giovannangelo as their mentor. Even the younger generation that's been brought in to help run the shop—and carry the label into its future—see themselves in the presence of greatness working under Giovannangelo. Keli Roberson, 30, is Oxxford's merchandiser, who picks the fabrics for each season; Fran Ferger, 26, the pattern maker, works closely with veteran cutters Richard Schulz, Luigi Morrone, and Fernando Gradisca, who've been doing this for nearly 40 years. "We're all here because of Rocco," says Ferger. "We all have the same passion." Nothing passes through the shop without Rocco's seal of approval—he's in charge of manufacturing, designing, quality control, and training new employees. "They don't pay me because I'm beautiful," Giovannangelo says, laugh- ing. "They pay me because I have skill. I know what I'm doing, and I'm proud of who I am." MA Rocco Giovannangelo with Fran Ferger, a pattern maker for Oxxford Clothes. When President George W. Bush was in office, he flew Giovannangelo to Texas to make his inaugural tux. Famous men who have donned Oxxford suits include Clark Gable (ON RIGHT, PICTURED WITH JACK BENNY)... ...former President George W. Bush, and former Governor Rod Blagojevich. PHOTOGRAPHY BY HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES (GRANT); PETER MACDIARMID/GETTY IMAGES (BUSH); JIM SPELLMAN/WIREIMAGE (BLAGOJEVICH)