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in 2010. "What you wear, what you drive, what you eat, where you go—they all reflect lifestyle choices. They're seeking authentic experiences." High-end Terlato wines (like their headlining Episode and Galaxy blends) are regulars in the retail division of Hart Davis Hart Wine Co., an upmarket auction house in Chicago. There and elsewhere, there's a marked sense of admiration for the family's ambition. "I just tasted the '08 Cabernet from Chimney Rock, and it's a very good example of what the Terlato family is try- ing to do," chairman John Hart says, though he hesitates to rank any wine without a blind tasting. "I respect them very much, and at our end of the busi- ness, at the very top end, I can't say that about too many people." NEVER SETTLING I f simply wanting to be the best made it so, the Terlatos would be home free. Plenty of people aspire to carve their names in history. What makes wine an especially challenging arena is the crowd of grape-stompers who are all vying for legend status. In a field where the gates were once shut except to aristo- crats—people like the Prince of Conti and the Rothschilds, who own "the king's wine"—the doors have been blown open, and there are now more wines on the market than ever. " 'This is the way we've always done it' is not a good enough answer." Indicators like the score (on a 100-point scale) and price (cult wines like Screaming Eagle can command thousands per bottle) don't always tell the full story. The opinions of critics, too, can be brutally sub- jective. "I really think the only difference between a 96-, 97-, 98-, 99-, and 100-point wine is the emotion of the moment," Parker told the Naples Daily News in 2007. But Fletcher, the head vintner, isn't wor- ried. If the Terlatos are willing to fire one of their previous teams, that means they're will- ing to outfit their current staff with whatever —DOUG FLETCHER have given us a carte-blanche mandate [to] tools they require to succeed. "The Terlatos produce world-class wines," he says. So Fletcher balances the vines with his pruning shears, sparing only the grapes that will get the most efficient hydration from the stem. He clocks the drip-irrigation, and when the time comes for barreling, he uses subtler French oak instead of the cheaper American. He and his team have taken apart every piece in the process like an engine, examining each piston and gasket to see if it's good enough. An example: At Chimney Rock, they spent a chunk of time exploring equipment that would mimic an ancient basket press. The process isn't the most efficient, but it's gentle. Modern machinery that smashes the skins to the max could yield 10 to 12 percent more juice, but, like squeezing a tea bag, it would also release astringent flavors that would lower the quality of the wine. "'This is the way we've always done it' is not a good enough answer," Fletcher says. Back at Chimney Rock, in the Napa Valley morning, John Terlato is twirl- ing the Tomahawk Cabernet, splashing it high on the sides of the glass. He inhales its aromas: hints of flowers, black currants, maybe a little cedar. Finally he takes a sip, spreading it around his mouth and letting it coat his palate. As John swallows, Fletcher looks him in the eye: "Not half bad, is it?" MA The Vintner's Calendar Creating one of the world's best wines is a task that requires the methods of a scientist, yet the sensibilities of an artist. Head winemaker Doug Fletcher unpacks some of the highlights of his year. February: Pruning. The winemaking team carefully examines each vine, deciding which to cut and which to keep based on the year before. "The most important decision we make all year is pruning the vines because it determines the yield of the vineyard next year," Fletcher says. March: Tasting. The anticipation in the air is palpable as the wine washes over Fletcher's taste buds. In a given spring, he'll sample vintages from the previous two years to get a sense of how they'll develop. "This is your first chance to see what the wine is going to be like," he explains. "We don't have to worry about changing them very often because we tend to get them right in the vineyards." July–August: Veraison, also known as ripening. "As the grapes are turning color, we'll look for stragglers and assess how the vines are doing," Fletcher says. " Then it's just waiting for the harvest." October: Harvest. The vineyard gears up for action, with a battalion of workers ready to pick into the dead of night if the weather demands it. "The winemaking team is out every day, walking the rows and tasting the fruit, looking for the right flavors and seed maturation," Fletcher says. "At some point over a couple of weeks, the skins will have softened enough. They'll be less astringent, and you'll know it's time." January–March: Dormancy. The term can be misleading— as the vines are resting, the work of the vintner and the vineyard staff is in full forward motion for next harvest. "I'm skiing in Telluride!" Fletcher jokes. "No, at that point we're preparing for the process to happen all over again." John Terlato Barrels stored in the caves at Rutherford Hill Winery in Napa Valley. MICHIGANAVEMAG.COM 113 PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATHAN KIRKMAN (ANTHONY AND BILL); COURTESY OF TERLATO WINES INTERNATIONAL (CHAPOUTIER)