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PHOTOGRAPHY BY REBECA SAHN (WINE); COURTESY OF GLADONES PHOTOGRAPHY (SINGH) BAR EXAM continued from page 84 with their choice of food." As temperatures cool, Glunz steers customers toward red wines with greater body and deeper flavor, with an emphasis on Rhone wines, Syrahs, and Zinfandels. "These will all pair well with chef Sternweiler's specialty: game and hearty soups," she says. Order a bold red with the signature coq au vin or grilled filet mignon with mushroom duxelle, roasted shallots, asparagus, and bordelaise sauce finished with bone marrow. At many restaurants, the wine list plays second fiddle to the food. But at The Boarding House, grapes are at the heart of the menu, thanks to the pedigree of proprietor and master sommelier (and Check, Please! host) Alpana Singh, who works in tandem with versatile chef Christian Gosselin (formerly of Bistronomic). "We have a wonderful dynamic where I recommend a particular wine and what it would pair with, and he'll create a dish—or vice versa," says Singh. "The food menu allows the opportunity to show the interplay between wine and food." The multilevel establishment encompasses the life cycle of a full eve- ning under one roof. The fir st floor houses the wine bar, an ideal spot to sample one of 20 wines by the glass, select a bottle from a list of 350, and share one of many plates, including Northern California-style pizzas with seasonal toppings. "I didn't want to have too many wines by the Alpana Singh glass, so I can change it up based on my own whims, the change in weather, and what the chef is doing," says Singh. "I want it to be fresh and focused." The party room sits one floor above, designed to host wine classes, seminars, and private events. On the third level, guests can kick back in a dining room for a meal of appetizers, entrées, and desserts. The structured courses highlight the wine selection for a richer tasting experience. "Entrées give me an opportunity to enjoy a bottle of wine, while shared plates are for tasting by the glass," says Singh. The last stop in The Boarding House is a subterranean wine cellar and lounge, perfectly suited for night owls with an appre- ciation for a very different type of bottle service. It would be a mistake not to heed the sage advice of Voltaire, so in the spirit of the season, let's all raise a glass to the resurgence of wine in Chicago. MA SAVOR THE SEASON Check Please! host and master sommelier Alpana Singh reveals her favorite fall wines. NV Domaine Agrapart Blanc de Blancs Terroirs Grand Crus ($60): The estate-grown, small-production Champagnes from Agrapart are prized by sommeliers and Champagne enthusiasts alike. This 100 percent Grand Cru Chardonnay-based sparkler features notes of buttery brioche, lemon curd, and green apple. 2009 Qupe Roussanne Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara ($40): The cooler weather brings a need for heavier, more comforting whites, and this Roussanne is like a cashmere sweater for your palate. 2008 Cornerstone Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($75): Made from 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon from Howell Mountain, Oakville, and southern Napa Valley, it's full-bodied with silky tannins on the palate and notes of black plums, cherries, cassis, cedar, and vanilla. Louis Glunz ll, Barbara Glunz's father, on the bottling line Inside The House of Glunz in the early 1900s 86 MICHIGANAVEMAG.COM