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PHOTOGRAPHY BY BARBARA KRAFT T he Guide THE VERY MONTH THIS BEST OF devour: pizza imbibe: smoothies acquire: shoes seeing red CHEF DEVIN HASHIMOTO PUMPS UP HIS UNPARALELLED JAPANESE MENU AT WYNN'S NEW MIZUMI. BY CHELSEA STONE J ust as chef Devin Hashimoto's cuisine balances exotic offerings with Japanese classics at the new Mizumi, the massive dining space has been opened up and transformed by designer Roger Thomas into part peaceful respite, part all-out Eastern explosion. The sushi bar and dining room set-up might be familiar to guests of the former Okada space, but the walls have been painted a stunning crimson and accented with gold, and the $2,000-minimum private Floating Pagoda Table has been revamped to match. No matter which hot table you score, diners can compose their own mix-and-match feasts from the sushi bar, robatayaki and teppanyaki grills, hot and cold plates from the kitchen, or go for the six-course omakase tasting menu. Chef Hashimoto carried over some of his signature dishes but is con- stantly cycling specials to keep the menu interesting and seasonal. Live seafood is flown in weekly from prime locations around the world, includ- ing Hawaii, Spain, New Zealand, and Korea. "It is a bit of challenge when you try to incorporate ingredients that are seasonal to the States versus ingre- dients used in Japan," he says. "Asians very much like the sea and live food at the table, which translates into freshness for them. It's something that's unique, but we do try to make sure that nothing is still moving on the table here." The yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño gelée, crispy onion, and ponzu sauce, and the spicy king crab tacos (in shells made of taro rather than corn), are both must-try dishes, and the seafood inaniwa pasta (very thin, al dente udon noodles) with uni butter sauce, scallops, king crab, and octopus is even more decadent than it sounds. Meat lovers will be wowed by the 72-hour- braised American Wagyu short rib and the organic Jidori chicken. For more adventurous palates, foie gras chawanmushi is Hashimoto's twist on a tradi- tional Japanese custard. And for dessert? Dig into the caramelized green tea crème brûlée paired with a pot of one of Mizumi's signature teas. When you walk back onto the casino floor, you'll be the calmest one out there. Wynn Las Vegas, 702-770-3463; wynnlasvegas.com V VEGASMAGAZINE.COM 137