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TASTE RIGHT: Carnevino's handblown glasses. BELOW RIGHT: Giacomo Conterno Barolo "Monfortino" 1993. VINO VERITAS ABOVE: Tagliatelle with porcini trifolati and beef cheek agnolotti with sweet onion ragu. LEFT: Carnevino's menu features the restaurant's exclusive brand of organic "super-prime" beef. continued from page 70 includes tartare, bresaola, beef agnolotti, Wagyu beef cheek, BBL dry-aged rib eye, and dessert. As if that weren't enough, enter the one-of-a-kind riserva steak program—a rare exception to the Vegas maxim that anything can be had for a price. Given the difficulty, scoring a riserva steak— aged six to 11 months—is as gratifying as beating the house. Even calling ahead won't guarantee one. Brisson selects cuts of rib eye and short loin to undergo extended aging based on eye size, marbling, and fat content. "It needs to be able to withstand that long dry-aging process," she says. "I won't select cuts just to have it." Out of 4,000 pounds of meat, she may choose only four or five cuts. Should you be so lucky as to snag a riserva, be prepared for supple, deeply colored flesh that provides intense, long-lingering, umami-rich beef flavor. The long aging adds a touch of funk, like that of an aged Gorgonzola or black truffles, making it an acquired taste for some. Sublime steaks call for equally exceptional accompaniments, and here is another way Carnevino sets itself apart from its competitors. An obsessive dedication to quality ingredients led the restaurant group to set up a farmers market to support its farm-to-table philosophy, as well as to build relationships with leading vendors, like farm forager Kerry Clasby. Even a simple steakhouse staple like mashed potatoes is elevated with the addition of creamy mascarpone cheese, crispy bits of Heritage Foods guanciale, and a tender poached egg from California's Chino Valley Ranchers. continued on page 74 Scoring a rare riserva steak—aged six to 11 months—is as gratifying as beating the house. 72 At Carnevino, respected wine expert and maker Joe Bastianich veered from his traditional Italian-focused lists. "There are many great wines around the world," he says. "It's foolish to limit ourselves to just Italian wines." He frequently adds new options, describing his list as "an evolution, a very organic living organism." But the dedication to meal-enhancing wines remains constant. Begin with bubbles, he recommends. Pairing an insalata Caprese with the berry-toned, sparkling Schramsberg brut rosé 2009 is "just about perfect," he says. A crisp white, like the Bastianich Vespa Bianco 2011, "provides a remarkable counterpoint to the richness of grilled octopus." But this is a steakhouse, so the majority of the wines are big reds. "It's hard to find a red wine that doesn't pair with steak or some extension of steak," Bastianich says. For a wine that stands up to the full-flavored, dry-aged bone-in rib eye, he suggests an Argentinean malbec or Brunello di Montalcino, because they are "generous but tannic at the same time." The riserva steak, however, with its Gorgonzola cheese undertones, calls for something really extracted, like Begali Monte Ca' Bianca amarone della Valpolicella 2006 or an inky Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. Some of the world's most sought-after bottles of wine—Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1985, Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 1985, Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tache 1990, Château Lafite Rothschild 1966 in magnum format—make appearances on the list. But recognizing that not everyone can spend upward of $500, Bastianich ensures that the list also offers "bottles of wine for under a hundred bucks that are a real kick in the ass. Those are the real jewels on our list for me." V PHOTOGRAPHY BY SABIN ORR (TAGLIATELLE, MENU, GLASSES, BOTTLE) Apprehension is not uncommon when faced with a wine list as extensive as Carnevino's. Here, co-owner Joe Bastianich offers some recommendations. VEGASMAGAZINE.COM 070-074_V_ST_SurfTurf_Opener_Oct13.indd 72 9/17/13 5:40 PM