ML - Vegas Magazine

2014 - Issue 1 - Winter

Vegas Magazine - Niche Media - There is a place beyond the crowds, beyond the ropes, where dreams are realized and success is celebrated. You are invited.

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ON THE TOWN LET'S MEET Where: Casa di Amore, 2850 E. Tropicana Ave., 702-433-4967; casadiamore.com What: Fried calamari, clams, veal francese, gypsy pasta FAR LEFT: Bartolotta whets his appetite by inspecting the warm garlic bread. ABOVE: The ambience at Casa di Amore is loudly and proudly Italian-American. LEFT: "Fruits of the sea" are a specialty here, including these succulent clams. That's Amore PAUL BARTOLOTTA MAY BE ONE OF THE LEADING PRACTITIONERS OF ALTA CUCINA ITALIANA IN THE UNITED STATES, BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN HE CAN'T APPRECIATE A GOOD SUNDAY SUGO. BY ANDY WANG PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUCKY WENZEL P aul Bartolotta has been elevating Italian food into the foremost cuisine in America for 25 years. After extensive training in top kitchens all over Italy and France, he took his knowledge to San Domenico in New York and Spiaggia in Chicago, where his refined approach turned those restaurants into fine-dining destinations as thrilling as any of the French haute cuisine places that dominated at the time. Since 2005, the chef has dazzled diners at Wynn's simultaneously spectacular and simple Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, where his imported, otherwise impossibleto-find seafood, including the world's most famous langoustines, is the star. The fish is prepared simply, but one bite of any pasta dish reminds you there's a master chef (with two James Beard Awards) bringing you the authentic tastes of Italy. As steadfastly Italian as his food, Bartolotta grew up in Milwaukee, where he also owns a sprawling restaurant empire with his siblings. During an off-Strip dinner at the loudly and proudly ItalianAmerican spot Casa di Amore, which serves one-pound pasta bowls and blankets the table with spaghetti, fettuccine, and veal, Bartolotta goes back to the beginning. The waiter, Tony, recommends steamed clams to start and brings them with hot homemade bread. "Dip it in the clam broth," he says. Bartolotta digs into the clams. Did I see that this place is open until 5 in the morning? Yeah, I can imagine eating here at, like, 3 AM. You're darn right. It's, like, 3 in the morning and you want something ribsticking. That's here. continued on page 66 64 VEGASMAGAZINE.COM 064-066_V_Taste_OnTheTown_Winter14.indd 64 1/10/14 10:44 AM

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