Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/120116
FOOD FOR THOUGHT "The network of chefs here is fantastic. I've never experienced such great camaraderie."—joseph elevado Many Asian bases are covered. Tom kha gai, a coconut ginger chicken soup, is distinctly Thai. One could argue that Elevado's whole crispy fish—which is unusual, by the way, in a tomato and egg broth—is similar to sinigang, a Filipino fish dish, but in this case minus the sour tang of tamarind. The perfectly marbled Wagyu rib cap. Hamachi sashimi, made with crispy garlic, pickled cherry peppers, cilantro, and calamansi soy sauce from the Philippines. If you crave something on the light side, the chili mint duck confit is brilliant, with a deliciously slow-simmered duck leg resting next to a pile of frisée, arugula, and slices of sweet orange. The lobster salad is popular: big chunks of lobster meat taken out of the shell, with Bibb lettuce, red onions, nori seaweed, and a parsley emulsion. The star meat on the menu at Andrea's is the eight-ounce Wagyu rib cap—simply roasted, the meat perfectly marbled, and as flavorful as the law allows. One dish made famous by Nobu is saikyo misomarinated black cod, a fish so buttery it flakes apart when prodded. Elevado's version, marinated for up to three days, uses brown and white sugar in the marinade for an even richer, more decadent entrée. Organic Jidori chicken breast, too, is fall-apart tender, 90 garnished with horseradish spaetzle. Desserts are rarely a strong suit in an Asian restaurant, but Andrea's is an exception. A nice display of exotic ice creams, presented in tiny cones on a metal tree, features flavors such as blood-orange ginger, coconut, and chocolate chili. Like so much of this menu, it's ideal for sharing. Wynn pastry chef Pierre Gatel's Peanut Butter and Caramel Kiss, one-third of a dessert trio that also includes a coconut roll and Happy Buddha Fortune Cookies, is a must, as are individual desserts such as Chocolate & Coffee: milk chocolate mousse on a fudge brownie paired with a Thai coffee ice cream bar. Many guests hit Surrender to boogie off dinner and end up staying until the wee hours. Like them, Elevado is definitely here to stay. n WYNN 086-090_W_FoodForThought_Spring_13.indd 90 4/4/13 5:09 PM