Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/760086
so poor compared to what we have." Long-cultivated relationships with fishermen bring those moleche and Mediterranean sole from Venice, snapper from the south, and red shrimp and orate from Naples. "If you were in Puglia and wanted something from the south, you'd wait longer than we do, it would likely come frozen, and you'd have to pay a lot of money to get it," Prodani says. Another hallmark of LoRusso's menu is that it has been gently pared down: Fewer items allow him to focus on the seafood and on the superbly fresh pastas he has intro- duced. Right now, for instance, is prime time for sea urchin in Sicily, where they're harvested from the middle of November to April. They play a starring role in his mac- cheroni alla chitarra con ricci di mare. LoRusso's own Abruzzese-style chitarra pasta (long strands of spaghetti that are square rather than round) is the perfect vehicle for a substantial sauce—here with crab, tomato, and lemon, topped with briny and complex Handmade chitarra pasta with spider crab, tomato, lemon, and a seasonal star: sea urchin. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFF GREEN. OPPOSITE: BY BARBARA KRAFT 88