Aspen Peak - Niche Media - Aspen living at its peak
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I "Ben is going to be super famous someday," Colorado, painstakingly picking, n the end, the best Colorado wine came to me. Ben Parsons, owner of The Infinite Monkey Theorem in Denver, drove down to Aspen for a night of tasting at Matsuhisa Aspen, which has carried his wine since the days he personally sold cases of it out of his old Toyota 4Runner. Parsons is renowned—some might say notori- ous—in Colorado winemaking circles for his youthful outspokenness, self-confidence, and lack of desire to fraternize with other Colorado winer- ies. A Brit by birth, Parsons arrived in Colorado in 2001 at 25 to work as winemaker at Canyon Winds Vineyards in Palisade; at the time, he was the only winemaker in the state with a degree in oenology. He quickly gained a following for his knowledge of growing and how to make outstand- ing wine from inconsistent grapes. In 2008, after the death of his father, Parsons attained a small inheritance, with which he founded The Infinite Monkey Theorem (IMT), named for the theory that states a monkey strik- ing typewriter keys at random for an infinite amount of time will eventually type the complete works of Shakespeare. He set up operations in a Quonset hut in Denver's arts district. The label's whimsical name underscores his mission—to make wine fun and interesting, and to turn skep- tics into believers. As with all great winemakers, Parsons obsessed with fruit. Working with several differ- ent growers allows him to pick fruit from the best vineyards. That means lots of trips to Western is InfInIte Set tasting, and battling with growers about when to pick. He Matsuhisa beverage director Shawn Gallus says. "I'm not kidding. This guy is putting Colorado wine on the map of world-class wines." drives the fruit back to Denver on a flatbed truck and the race to barrel an exceptional wine is on. "The first seven days are critical," he says. "That's when the wine is made." It is a 24-hour-a- day lifestyle for Parsons. Since 2009, Wine Spectator has rated five IMT wines 87 and 88. The recognition attained by Parsons has some Colorado winemakers bristling, even suggesting his wine is not actually made from Colorado grapes. (While IMT in the past consisted of 100 percent Colorado grapes, Parsons recently began adding California, Oregon, and Washington grapes to two of his blends—the Verdelho and the Albarino—and sourcing Albarino grapes California for one of his latest releases, Albarino and sparkling Albarino in a can.) from None of the criticism fazes the jovial Parsons. "I prefer to let the wine speak for itself," he says, eager to pour the next vintages, to experience how time has shaped his brood. Among them are a 2010 Albarino (California) and several superstar reds made with Colorado grapes—2009 Cabernet Franc, 2008 Petite Sirah, and my top picks, The Blind Watchmaker (Petite Verdot/Petite Sirah/Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon) and 2009 The Hundredth Monkey (Petite Verdot/ Cabernet Franc/Syrah/Petite Sirah). Each has strengths of its own; among them there is not one bad pour. It didn't hit me until I sat down with Parsons: I was not just tasting great Colorado wine, it was great wine, period. So, if this is the future of Colorado wines, and the future tastes good, then why does the reputa- tion persist, that Colorado wines are sub-par? It's about consistency, says Jonathan Pullis, master sommelier and wine program director at The Little Nell hotel. While Parsons and a hand- ful of others are making good vintages, one bad sip of Colorado wine from another producer could turn off a drinker for life. "Colorado wine is definitely moving forward," Pullis says. "The improvements in the past five years are incredible. Wine growers are getting a better understanding of what works." You also have to have a winemaker who knows how to use good fruit, Parsons argues. "I've spent my whole life dedicated to making wine," he says. "I pay attention to every detail. Wine just doesn't make itself. There are an infinite number of variables in making wine—agriculture, weather, different grow- ing choices, when to pick. And once you have the grapes, you've got one shot to make it great." Ultimately, the journey takes me from the small barrel caves of quiet Paonia to the industrious wine-growing hub of Colorado to an urban win- ery of Denver. And while Colorado still has a ways to go before it can contend with the best winemak- ers of the world, it is at the tipping point, moving in the direction of distinction. And, like it or not, Ben Parsons is the man leading the charge. AP ben parsons is changing the wine terrain one can at a time. Sparkling Wine in a Can? The Infinite Monkey Theorem produces four sparkling wines in a can (popular among outdoor enthusiasts for lightweight portability): Black Muscat, Syrah, Albarino, and a rosé. All are available in the US, and Parsons hopes to sell them in vending machines in Japan and the UK, among other places. The sparkling Albarino (made from California grapes) is served at Snooze restaurants in Denver as part of their popular mimosa. kegged Wine? Parsons believes wine on tap will be the norm for restaurants and bars within five years, and is currently "kegging" his 2010 Chardonnay and Malbec, and 2011 Riesling and rosé. Wine in a Mine? Last year's inaugural Wine at the Mine party was held during the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. This year's anticipated follow-up will highlight the summer food and wine scene. going abroad: Parsons is considering bringing the IMT model to other cities, sourcing local grapes near urban wineries in places like Austin, Portland, and Los Angeles. old Major: Parsons will team up with chef Justin Brunson to open his first restaurant, at 33rd Avenue and Tejon Street in Denver, in October. The fruits of his labor: IMT's wine in a can... ... and in the more traditional bottles aspenpeak-magazine.com 137 photography by emily chaplin