ML - Vegas Magazine

Vegas - 2015 - Issue 4 - Summer - Art of the City - J.K. Russ

Vegas Magazine - Niche Media - There is a place beyond the crowds, beyond the ropes, where dreams are realized and success is celebrated. You are invited.

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photography by Mike pawlenty (Malarkey); peter harasty (shriMp, drink, green eggs) clockwise from far left: Searsucker chef-owner Brian Malarkey; shrimp and grits with bacon; a Jalaberry Strawpeno cocktail. the idea of just sharing the entire menu. It's not like 'I'm gonna have an appetizer and an entrée.' It's 'Let's just get four of these for the table and just share them all.' It's really a communal kind of experience." At Caesars Palace, Malarkey has successfully adapted the original's hip, urban vibe to a casino environment. The décor blends barnyard-style wood tables and bare antique light fixtures with lush topiary. Since vacationers like to get their drink on a bit earlier than most, the restaurant opens for happy hour at 4:30 pm. Acknowledging that people-watching in a Vegas resort can be at least as much fun as on a city street, the bar area features an outward- facing counter that opens directly onto the casino f loor. And realizing that certain VIPs don't like being ogled by their fans, the private dining area has a secret entrance to the megaclub Omnia next door. The atmosphere changes over the course of the evening—especially when the club is open. "As the night goes on," Malarkey says, "the music gets louder and the lights get lower." The menu is equally inviting to all. If you're hanging out at the bar for happy hour and just want to nibble, check out the peanut "cracker jacks" or a deca- dently rich order of fries, tossed with duck fat, Parmesan cheese, prosciutto dust, and parsley. If you'd like a traditional sit-down meal with an indulgent twist, dig into a tomahawk rib eye finished with Cognac and horse- radish, or a cut of mahi mahi drenched in a thick, sweet demi-glace of red cherries, wine, and smoked almonds. Or if you prefer a light meal before hitting the dance f loor, try the shrimp ceviche, a dish created specifically for Las Vegas, with the shrimp blanched rather than citrus-cured and treated with a bit of citrus juice, chili peppers, and tomatillos. As summer proceeds, Searsucker may find its biggest fans in the late-night revelers stumbling out of Omnia (or any other party). Dinner slides right into brunch with items like cheese waff les with country ham and bourbon maple syrup or a cowboy campfire breakfast with pork-belly hash, hanger steak, and a sunny-side-up egg. Perhaps you'd rather indulge your sweet tooth with a peanut butter gelato sundae (say it fast: the "ermahgerd" sundae) or—depending on how the night went—take comfort in warm chocolate chip cookies. They're served with a G-rated glass of milk, but why not wash them down with one of the bar's custom spins on a classic cocktail? No one's judging; they have a motto to uphold, after all. Caesars Palace, 702-866- 1800; searsucker.com V So SeuSS Me eat them, eat them, here they are! Searsucker is at its best when serving big sloppy comfort foods packed with bold favors. During late-night hours, you can get that experience from the whimsically titled Green Eggs & Ham—a dish I would gladly eat in a box, with a fox, in a house, or with a mouse. A nod to fellow San Diego resident Theodor "Dr. Seuss" Geisel, the color- fully over-the-top take on eggs Benedict starts with pork belly brined for 24 hours in apple cider vinegar, water, salt, and black peppercorn. It's then roasted three to four hours, pressed to compress the fat, rested, and cut. Just before it's served, the meat is seared, placed on toasted brioche, and topped with a poached egg, chimichurri hol- landaise sauce, shaved chives, and micro basil. The result is a breakfast- style treat particularly good for disorienting pre- morning hours in Vegas. "it's not necessarily just dinner. it's about getting together with your friends." —brian malarkey 72  vegasmagazine.com taSte

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