Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/109083
TASTE West Coast Comes East continued from page 70 "My food has always been about taking European techniques and applying them to all the memories and sensations of my childhood, like eating baked beans for Sunday supper and then having those beans again the next morning with corn fritters, maple syrup, sausage, and cornmealcrusted smelts," says McClelland, whose smoked salmon dish with compressed matsutake and warm horseradish cream is served alongside a mini-crock of baked beans jazzed up with verjus and garlic, and steamed brown bread enriched with buckwheat and wine-macerated raisins. L'Espalier, 774 Boylston St., 617-262-3023; lespalier.com Sole with Finnan Haddie Sauce "When it gets cold, I like to go back to hearty New England dishes and then tweak them to make them lighter," says Post 390's Executive Chef Eric Brennan. His George's Bank winter sole Milanese is a twist on finnan haddie (most traditionally, cold smoked haddock) that consists of breaded, pan-seared sole served with potato–gilfeather turnip "risotto," black trumpet mushrooms, and finnan haddie cream sauce, which gets its old-school flavor from salt-cured fresh haddock that is strained out of the sauce before serving. Post 390, 406 Stuart St., 617-399-0015; post390restaurant.com Roasted Blue Cod "We have a lot of fun reworking New England classics in a sophisticated way that home cooks can't replicate but will be able to recognize," says Catalyst Restaurant's chef/owner, William Kovel, whose refined riff on cod fish chowder entails roasted blue cod and olive oil crushed potatoes served with a clam chowder nage of fish stock, cream, bacon, celery, onion, and parsley, dotted with fresh mussels and clams. Catalyst Restaurant, 300 Technology Square, Cambridge, 617-576-3000; catalystrestaurant.com BC Post 390's George's Bank winter sole Milanese. 070-073_BC_SC_LocalFlavorTrends_Spring13.indd 72 L'Espalier's smoked salmon with matsutake. ;PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW DELISLE (SALMON); CHRIS HIMMEL (SOLE) Catalyst Restaurant's roasted blue cod gets a modern twist with clam chowder nage. 2/12/13 2:19 PM