Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/98961
VINE ARTS There's nothing like a little bubbly to get the party—and palate—started right. BY AMY ZAVATTO T hree be the things I shall never attain: envy, content, and sufficient Champagne." True enough were the words of the inimitable and ever-thirsty Ms. Dorothy Parker—but at Wynn, a good case has been made for the last item of that trio. Sufficient Champagne is certainly at hand if Wynn general wine buyer Mark Thomas has anything to say about it. And luckily for you, he does. "I'm a big Champagne drinker myself," Thomas fesses up in a recent chat about all things bubbly and bright. Sparkling wine in general is famous for being the sipper of choice for New Year's, but sequestering those beauteous bubbles to only one time of year is a habit well worth breaking. "It can be used in celebrations outside the holidays, too," says Thomas, "for almost any reason." No matter the season, though, there are some rules that can't be broken. To be deemed true Champagne, the bubbly must hail from the Champagne appellation, officially designated in 1927, and the grapes plucked from one of the four major growing regions in this area of northern France, due east of Paris. Its 319 villages—or "crus" as they are known in the sippable vernacular— encompass 84,000 acres. Of those 319 crus, 44 have premier cru status, and 17 are among the highly prized grand crus. Luckily in Vegas, booking a flight to France isn't the only way to access the world's best bubbly. In fact, you don't even necessarily have to commit to an entire bottle. The recently kicked-off Luxury Wine by the Glass Program at Wynn lets you to dip a toe into the land of finer sparkling beverages, with such treats as the venerable Dom Pérignon by the glass at the Tower Suite Bar. But is all Champagne created equal? No, thank goodness! That would be terribly boring. "Although all Champagne is made in the same way—in the Méthode Champenoise style—I think this is the beauty," Thomas says. "There is so much personality in it, and so many choices in terms of aging, blends, the 92 Champagne selections include Veuve Cliquot La Grande Dame 1998, Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 2002, Krug Grande Cuvée Brut, and 2000 Dom Pérignon Rose. source of the fruit. I think there are many fascinating levels of Champagne based on all those factors." Which is, in part, why choosing favorites can be a tough task. For Thomas, some of his favorite oenophile offerings at Wynn include bottles both vintage and non, like the Bollinger Special Cuvée NV, Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 2002, and Henriot Brut 1998. While sipping by the glass is a great way to sample, another bonus to oneoff pours is the freedom to engage in freestyle food pairing, too. "There are so many styles and uses for Champagne year-round in seasonally inspired menus," says Thomas. "For instance, I love the deepening style of Champagne with older bruts, when they lose a little of their effervescence but gain in strength, power, flavor, and aroma. Aged bruts go well with heavier fall dishes, even those that have cream or bordelaise sauces." Thomas also recommends blanc de noirs—sparklers typically made with 100 percent Pinot Noir grapes. "It's a great style with depth that can go with just about anything. Not steak," he cautions, "but lots of seafood—and even veal chops." And when the weather turns warm, Thomas turns to blanc de blancs. With its crisp, high acidity and bright flavor, these sparklers are shoo-ins with salads and chilled seafood. And what if the content of your glass isn't Champagne proper? No worries—there are so many options for great sparkling wines out there: within France in places like the Loire Valley, Burgundy, and even Languedoc in the south; outside of the famed sparkling wine country, such as dry, crisp elegant Franciacorta or easy-drinking pops of Prosecco from Italy, or the comely Cava from Spain; and finally there are some fantastic producers right in our own backyard, from places like California and Oregon. Good bubbles, it seems, abound, and you shouldn't just save them for the super-special occasions, if only to put Thomas's best theory into motion: "Sparkling wine puts everyone in a good mood. The sound of a bottle opening perks up the energy level in any room—everyone notices!" n PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX KARVOUINS OH, THE SPARKLE OF IT! WYNN 092_W_BOB_VineArts_Winter13.indd 92 12/12/12 5:21 PM