Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
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I "I'm leaving for China in a few hours, so I'm not sure how much time we'll have." Diane von Furstenberg thus enters the conversation like a glamorous whirlwind crafted of energy and spirit, qualities woven through a purring Belgian accent that's as effortless and sensuous as the way her iconic wrap dresses hug the curves of a woman's body. The effect might be a little disarming if one of the world's most famous women were not equally adept at putting those around her at ease, especially while discussing her clear-eyed vision of her world. For example, is that imminent trip to China for business or pleasure? "It's both—my life is a pleasure," von Furstenberg says. And you believe such an idea—that she has carved out a masterful path that balances work with philanthropy, travel with exploration. She clarifies in an email sent later the same evening while en-route that this particular excursion will be a short one—she and husband Barry Diller were scheduled to speak at a JPMorgan conference in Beijing—but adds, "I don't like to stay away from China for more than six months at a time," partly because, like so many other journeys, the experience might inform a future collection. "My camera is always with me—nature photos become prints, an architectural detail becomes a handbag, a vegetable market a color palette." And yet von Furstenberg's inspirations are not always discovered halfway around the world, but sometimes quite literally in her own backyard, that of a Connecticut home she The Mimosa shearling clutch. Anette suede pump. The Ridley Puzzle Dress from DVF's Fall 2012 Runway. says keeps her feeling grounded and centered. "I really do feel like a New England person," she says. "There's something about the beauty of it, but also the four distinct seasons, that marries well with my background." This season we all benefit from von Furstenberg's unique sense of beauty, confidence, discovery, and wanderlust, with a just-arrived Fall collection (available at her Newbury Street boutique) that's roundly agreed to be among her strongest in recent years. It's a chic juxtaposition featuring such pieces as voluminous, cleanly cut coats mixed with close-to-the-body dresses featuring luxurious details—paillettes crafted to resemble pieces of a jigsaw puzzle splashed across a pink sheath, or a bold black-and-white graphic that upon closer inspection is formed by a pattern of interlocking hands—a playful nod to Surrealism. "I've always been influenced by the Surrealists—my fantasy was to have had an affair with Man Ray," she says, name-checking the artist known for combining seemingly disparate elements to inspire meaning and conversation. Von Furstenberg christened her Fall collection Rendezvous, and it embraces all that the word implies. "We wanted something very seductive, the feeling of a woman going on a seductive trip," she explains. "There is a wonderful sense of the unknown and of expectation. And what's going through your mind when you get a dress for a rendezvous? We wanted women to enjoy all of those ideas." The "we" in her thoughts includes Yvan Mispelaere, who joined von Furstenberg as her creative director in April 2010. "The way I work with Diane, it really starts with words or thoughts," he explains. "She's always on the go, so she sends me messages, emails, sometimes little pictures. The first word we wanted to work around for this season was volupté: something voluptuous and luxurious in colors and textures, and the idea of enveloping the body and being able to hide yourself in a way, with a sense of mystery. It's very sensory." The pairing of von Furstenberg and Mispelaere seems a bit of a love affair, with the mutual admiration revealed in the beauty and polish of each ensuing collection. "We finish each other's sentences," she says. "When you're in design, your first references are super important, and he understands those ideas from me immediately. And it's nice to see how I inspire him and where he takes the things I'm thinking. We really complete each other." V "You know, we are both from the north of Europe—she was born in Brussels and I was born in Normandy, but my family's roots are in Belgium, too," Mispelaere notes. "So we have that in common, and with that I think comes a certain sensibility for light and also a sense of romance that finds its way into our aesthetic and how we react to that aesthetic." They likewise share that love of Surrealism, also seen in the accessories, such as the oversized Carolina Lip clutch or a collection of nine limited-edition Fetish box clutches in whimsical shapes like hearts and clock faces; only 25 to 50 of each style are set to be produced. "There is so much excitement in our accessories right now," von Furstenberg says. "The Fetish bags reflect that, but they're also wonderfully timeless; you'll keep it forever and then give it to your daughter or granddaughter." on Furstenberg always has that duality in mind, how one of her designs will feel not only fresh but timeless, and how that design might inspire confidence in generations of women. It's a philosophy that has changed little since she arrived in New York 42 years ago with a plan to be a BOSTONCOMMON-MAGAZINE.COM 105