Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/615999
50 Wynn top: Creole-spiced bison rib eye. above: Chef Rene Lenger of The Country Club at work in the kitchen. right: The Country Club's Australian wagyu beef carpaccio. the United States, but they are often crossbred with less expensive and more productive cattle to increase yields and reduce costs. Because the greater amount of fat in Japanese beef needs to be rendered by cooking, most chefs don't like to use it raw, so Australian wagyu is the choice for the signature beef carpac- cio at The Country Club—A New American Steakhouse. "The carpaccio has been on the menu since the very first day—along with the corn chowder, it's a staple of this place," explains Executive Chef Rene Lenger. "When I eat Kobe, I want it to be at least medium rare. The Australian wagyu is a crossbreed so it has less marbling, and the flavor comes through better when cold." Several of the restaurants at Wynn offer domestic wagyu beef from Snake River Farms, which Elevado explains is from wagyu heifers crossed with Angus bulls, called "Wangus" in the beef industry. "The marbling is much bet- ter than Prime, but not as much as in Japanese beef," he says. While everyone agrees that imported Japanese wagyu is distinctive and rec- ognizable, not everyone thinks it's the best, and Center Fusion Andrea's puts a modern Asian- inspired spin on its dishes, offering guests the chance to try rare Japanese wagyu or classics with a twist, like the signature New York strip. "It's our best seller," says Executive Chef Joseph Elevado. "We take a USDA Prime New York strip steak, broil it, slice it, then drop it in a sizzling-hot cast-iron skillet with our special wasabi demi- glace, and we bring it right to the table, sizzling and covered in that delicious sauce. It's a Japanese-inspired riff on a clas- sic French sauce paired with one of the most American favorites." Elevado's wagyu program offers options that encourage guests to try "table shares"— sampling menus that feature wagyu beef tartare (using the less-fatty Snake River Farms domestic wagyu/Angus cross- breed) as well as domestic wagyu sliders. For diners who want pure Japanese A5 beef, Andrea's has a trio of interest- ing options. As an appetizer, a two-ounce portion is sliced into about five thin pieces, then seared in garlic oil and served with wasabi, ginger, and soy, not unlike the popular preparation of seared ahi tuna. Alternatively, the appetizer can be cooked tataki-style, in which the slices are lightly seared on all sides on a hot stone with ponzu sauce and green onion. Andrea's also offers whole wagyu steaks, served on a sizzling plate with a trio of dipping sauces on the side so the beef takes center stage. "Some guests like to get two ounces of each wagyu and try them side by side," Elevado says. "We've just added another Japanese wagyu from Ohmi to the menu. Needless to say, these are very high-end luxury items." Food SPoTLIghT