Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
Issue link: http://digital.greengale.com/i/555971
photography by Jon bilous (Kancamagus); t photography / shutterstocK.com (mass moca) Less MiLeage, PLenty of Leaves: ancaMagus HigHway, new HaMPsHire The 34 -mile Kancamagus Scenic Byway stretches east to west from Conway to Lincoln—smack in the middle of the White Mountains of New Hampshire. It's impressive any time of the year but comes to life in the fall with striking mountain vistas and acres of forest. "When I drive the Kanc in fall, I make sure I'm there for early light or late," says Mel Allen, editor of Yankee magazine, a man who knows a thing or two about the seasons in these parts. "Plus you'll avoid maybe a few hundred fellow foliage lovers who won't ever go faster than 30 miles per hour—and I can't blame them." Be sure to bring your camera and a tripod—this bit of asphalt is all about the scenic views. Start in North Conway, about 10 minutes north of Route 112 on Route 302. Fuel up on buttermilk pancakes or huevos rancheros at the Stairway Café (2649 White Mountain Hwy., North Conway, NH, 603-356- 5200; stairwaycafe.com). Once on the highway, pull off whenever the mood strikes. There is an interesting tableau of nature every five miles or so, including the Albany Swift River Lower Falls, the Rocky Gorge, Champney Falls, Mount Chocorua (about a three-and-a-half-mile hike for the really excellent views), Sabbaday Falls, Sugar Hill, and the Wangan Grounds. That should bring you just about to Lincoln. If you've had your fill of nature for this round, head a few miles south on Route 3 and relax with a juicy burger (or Buffalo frog's legs) and a cold one at the Woodstock Inn (135 Main St., North Woodstock, NH, 603-745- 3951; woodstockinnnh.com). If you still have some juice, take in Franconia Notch, a bit north on Route 3, for a bird's-eye view. foLiage warrior: route 2, MoHaw traiL, MassacHusetts If you started on Route 2 in Cambridge and only made it to Concord, you'd still find plenty to do and see, whether Revolutionary War sites, boutiques, or farmstands. If you plan to head farther west, pick up a wedge of cheddar and a loaf of bread at the Concord Cheese Shop (29 Walden St., 978-369-5778; concordcheeseshop.com) and keep driving— Route 2 goes all the way to North Adams, in the far northwestern corner of Massachusetts. The Connecticut River runs alongside the road for most of the journey, and its crossings include some impressive bridges and waterfalls. The Bridge of Flowers in Shelburne Falls, a former trolley bridge turned community garden, is an especially lovely one. Lunch at the West End Pub (16 State St., 413-625-6216; westendpubinfo.com) provides the best view, and the fish-and-chips make for good eating. Or, depending on where you are in your day, dig into that cheese from Concord, pick up coffee and handmade truff les from Shelburne Falls Coffee Roasters (1207 Mohawk Trail, 413-625-0116; shelburnefalls coffee.com), and grab a bench by the river. Toward the end of the road, you'll be rewarded with world-class art museums. In Williamstown, home of Williams College, a skip down South Street reveals the Clark Art Institute (225 South St., 413-458-2303; clarkart.edu), known for a collection that extends from the French impres- sionists to local artisans. In North Adams, at the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (1040 Mass MoCA Way, 413-664-4481; mass moca.org), things are decidedly modern. BC After Hours Where to stay if your road trip calls for an overnight. ROUTE 100, VERMONT Stowe Mountain Inn: A multifaceted resort offering a world-class spa, luxe rooms, and freplace after freplace. 5781 Mountain Road, Stowe, VT, 802- 253-3000; stowe.com The Pitcher Inn: This Relais & Châteaux property amazes guests with its well-appointed rooms as well as its award-winning food and wine program. 275 Main St., Warren, VT, 802-496-6350; pitcherinn.com KANCAMAGUS HIGHWAY, NEW HAMPSHIRE Woodstock Inn: The burgers are just the beginning at this quaint New England inn, with white birch furni- ture and paisley-covered walls. 135 Main St., North Woodstock, NH, 603-745-3951; woodstockinnnh.com ROUTE 2, MASSACHUSETTS The Porches Inn: Restore yourself at the Porches Inn, across from Mass MoCA, where the rooms are distinctly retro chic. 87 Marshall St., North Adams, 413-662-2111; porches.com The Albany Covered Bridge, one of the sights along the Kancamagus Scenic Byway in the White Mountain National Forest. Leaving Boston doesn't mean leaving culture behind, thanks to places like Mass MoCA. bostoncommon-magazine.com 129