Austin Way Magazine - GreenGale Publishing - There is a place beyond the crowds, beyond the ropes, where dreams are realized and success is celebrated. You are invited.
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Cirkiel's empire Parkside was just the start for Shawn Cirkiel. Here, the other members of his restaurant family. The Backspace – Neapolitan- style pizza and antipasti in a tiny room just behind Parkside. 507 San Jacinto Blvd., 512-474 -9899; thebackspace austin.com Olive and June – Southern Italian in a beautiful Bryker Woods gem. 3411 Glenview Ave., 512-467- 9898; oliveandjune-austin.com BullfighT – This year, Cirkiel left Chavez, the restaurant he opened in 2014, so that he can focus on launching a new restaurant based on Spanish cuisine. The 75-seat Airport Boulevard spot will serve shared plates like croquettes, fresh eel, monkfsh, and razor clams. While the chef admits that, "You don't see many vegetables on vacation in Spain," he will do a number of veggie dishes. A full cocktail program will feature drinks based on Spanish favorites like sherry, gin, and Kalimotxo (red wine and Coca-Cola), and an all-Spanish wine list is planned. "It's an ode to fresh food treated simply," says Cirkiel of this new venture. The besT seaTs in The house during sXsW While snaring any table at Parkside is a victory during festivals, ask for corner booths 62 or 69 if you have a larger party. Others may request table 61, called "the window at the zoo," for its proximity to Sixth-Street craziness. For last-minute bookings, Cirkiel recommends giving the host either a range of times or locations to improve your odds: "During SX, tables grow, shrink, and cancel. Be fexible, and we'll sort you out." photography by knoxy knox photography (Chef and food); Courtesy of parkside (dining room) Cirkiel's former restaurant, the beloved Jean Luc's Bistro, turned up wanting more fine-dining options. "The menu became more complex," Cirkiel says, "but the fun experience stuck." The chef credits the restau- rant's longevity to this f lexibility, which can accommodate the noisy bar-loving crowd as well as a couple desiring a special evening. The significant range of ingredients and flavors here reflects Cirkiel's culinary background. Early work at Napa's Domaine Chandon and New York's Café Boulud shows in his takes on the classics, while elements of his Austin stint with Tyson Cole appear in the modern, artful seafood. At Uchi, Cirkiel mentored the young Paul Qui, who remains appreciative. "Shawn was a huge inspiration,"says Qui. "He taught me both how to cook and how to manage cooks in the classic sense." Qui credits Cirkiel's "great palate" and strong business acumen for his success in a nontraditional setting. While Cirkiel's culinary approach at Parkside is rooted in classicism, it also targets the youngish crowd. The base of the steak tartare is diced tri-tip (bottom sirloin) and accented with shallots, capers, mustard, and gherkins—a mix that highlights the rich beef while layering in acidity, crunch, and spice. On the lighter side, the ceviche marries classic flavors of jalapeño, lime, avocado, and cilantro with a Mexican-spiced Bloody Mary mix and a quick-dressed portion of sashimi. Oysters are also popular, especially on Wednesdays, when they're half price—as is Champagne. While a dozen varieties of oysters are available, a sampler of Caraquets, Malpeques, and Shiny Seas is Cirkiel's favorite. During SXSW, look for early hints of the spring garden harvest. While vegetarian and vegan requests abound at the festival, expect asparagus with Parmesan, broccolini with chili oil and cherries, and fresh riffs on mushrooms and kale plates. For diners in search of comfort food, the mac and cheese seems ubiquitous on Parkside tables. The simple, creamy dish employs white cheddar and Gruyère, baked to order with a breadcrumb topping. For added decadence, sample delights of new pastry chef Erika Waksmunski (formerly of Congress). Cirkiel says Waksmunski "really hits home with core flavors like chocolate and malt. It's not traditional in approach, but it feels familiar." And Parkside's popular, ever-changing varieties of doughnuts offer a strong, sweet finish. Wine selections are thoughtful: Aficionados can find esoteric picks like Big Table Farm Pinot Gris, while Francophiles will spot coveted white wines from Vouvray's Domaine Huet. Cocktails lean toward whiskey, gin, and vodka and are crafted with a busy bar in mind. Says Cirkiel: "Nobody wants to wait 15 minutes. We serve what we like, but we're conscious of speed." The bustling room of high tin ceilings and exposed brick is both reverent a nd casua l. The late- Victorian architecture of East Sixth was an attraction for Cirkiel: "They don't build [places like this] any- more." But the massive black booths, industrial lights, and clean lines of wooden tables and metal chairs meld the classic space with the present. Parkside's success is a testament to Cirkiel's persona: Like him, the kitchen is skilled and confident with little pretense. Says Cirkiel: "You have to be comfortable with who you are. We do fine dining, but regulars have no problem asking me for a fried-egg sandwich." 301 E. Sixth St., 512-474- 9898; parksideaustin.com AW clockwise from left: Parkside's interior features classic and modern designs; the ever-popular macaroni, Gruyére, and cheddar side dish; chef Shawn Cirkiel, who opened the restaurant in 2008. 66 AUSTINWAY.com taste