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PHOTOGRAPHY BY REPORTERS ASSOCIATION (LEMMON); COURTESY OF BULGARI (DOORWAY); BULGARI HISTORICAL ARCHIVE (SHOP) ARTFUL ORIGINS Almost since its inception, Bulgari's aesthetic has been about color, texture, and romantic appeal. That may well be due to the brand's Greek ancestral roots that date back to the early 1800s, when the Voulgaris family of silversmiths created Byzantine- style works of art. Residing in a small village in the Pindus mountain range, the family was adept at making unique silver belts, buckles, earrings, and sword sheaths. They passed the art form from gen- eration to generation, eventually landing with the creative scion Sotirio Voulgaris, who was also an astute entrepreneur. Sotirio relocated to Italy and established his first jewelry shop in Rome in 1884. As the business f lourished, he Italianized his name and opened his second Bulgari store, and the first on Via Condotti, in 1894. (It would be another decade before a third boutique was established at the cur- rent landmark address, Via Condotti, number 10, at the foot of the entrancing Spanish Steps.) Throughout the ensuing century, the family-owned and -operated brand thrived. Family members con- tributed different aspects to the business: talent for design, expertise in precious gemstone selection, and business acumen. Together they built an empire based on vivid and evocative jewelry designs that were so enthralling and intriguing that they quickly caught the eyes of socialites and celebrities, of politi- cians and aristocrats. The glamorous Clare Boothe Luce—who, posted in Italy, was the first American woman to hold a major ambassadorship—was partic- ularly fond of the brand, as were Sophia Loren, Jayne Mansfield, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari creations have also captivated leading men. Celebrities such as Richard Burton, Eddie Fisher, and Kirk Douglas frequented the store in search of perfect gifts for their beloveds. American artist Andy Warhol, ever obsessed with color and design, never missed a chance to visit the store when in Rome, calling Bulgari the "best exhibition of con- temporary art." Today Bulgari can be seen on the wrists of such boldfacers as Naomi Watts, Kate Hudson, Julia Roberts, and Jessica Lange. EVOLUTION OF STYLE Pinpointing Bulgari's appeal is easy: The brand has established an inimitable style that is timeless. The original intricate Byzantine designs paved the way for the lavish and elegant Art Deco styles of the 1920s, when pendants, brooches, tiaras, and wrist- watches came into popularity. Bulgari's prominent use of large diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sap- phires in its designs for these pieces became a signature of the brand. Stunning f loral motifs that brought together mul- tiple colored gemstones in one piece stole the limelight in the 1940s, '50s, and '60s. It was a time of great innovation for Bulgari. In the decades to come, the brand developed new methods of gemstone carving and setting, metalworking, and gold engrav- ing that brought Bulgari world renown for presenting jewelry as art. The next step for the brand was to create jewelry not just for special occasions but also to wear all day, while maintaining Bulgari's elevated style. This evo- lution was manifested in some of the brand's most "Celebrating 130 years of Bulgari is especially meaningful in Chicago because of the city's link to design and art." –AVERY MARTIN TOP LEFT: The Elizabeth Taylor necklace from Bulgari's Heritage collection features 16 step-cut Colombian emeralds surrounded by brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds. ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Jack Lemmon and his wife, Felicia Farr, window-shopping on Via Condotti in 1962; the entrance to the newly refurbished Taylor room, where Elizabeth Taylor spent time with Gianni Bulgari while filming Cleopatra; the façade of Bulgari on Via Condotti in the 1920s. 132 MICHIGANAVEMAG.COM

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